The following applies to all my projects. I always begin by pre-washing every component of the garment I always begin by pre-washing every component of the garment, even those fabrics that say dry-clean only. For cotton, linen and wool I use hot water. Satins and silks get cold water. Everything gets gentle cycle wash and a cold rinse. Cotton, linen and wool get hot machine dry. More delicate fabrics get drip dry. The pre-wash applies to lining fabrics and interfacing as well as most trims. Interfacing and trims get a thorough dunking in warm or cool water and then air dry.

My reasons are as follows: First, there was no dry cleaning during most of the periods I sew for. Garments would have been washed - and washed much more harshly than we do presently. The slight amount of wear you might create by washing a fabric that isn't supposed to be washed will contribute to the aged look of the garment.

Second, there's pre-shrinking. Cottons, linens and wools are very prone to shrinkage. Just the steam pressing needed in constructing the garment will shrink the fabric. If you haven't already taken care of that by washing and drying, the shrinkage will be uneven. And woe be to you if you wash the clothes. The reason for pre-washing interfacing and any reasonable washable trims is that these items may shrink at different rates than your face fabric, creating wrinkles where you don't want them and puckering unattractively.

Last, almost all of today's fabrics are treated with some kind of sizing as the last step in their production. That finish takes away from the appearance and feel of your finished garment.

I DO have a couple of cautions. When it comes to expensive fabric and/or trim, if you have any doubt as to the result of washing, cut off a small piece and wash it before you do the entire piece if you have any doubt as to the result of washing, cut off a small piece and wash it before you do the entire piece. If the results are not acceptable, either steam the fabric with an iron held just above it or hang it over the shower rod and run lots of hot water in a closed bathroom. I have never ruined a piece of fabric treating it in the ways I've described. You also have to take the shrinkage into account when you purchase yardage. If not, you may come out up to 10% short when it comes time to cut out your garment.

Now that the fabric is washed and dried, you need to make sure the grain is straight. With the lengths of fabric used in most period garments, it will require 2 people or a very large ironing surface to straighten the grain if it is off. Don't be tempted to skip this step, no matter how tedious it seems. If the grain is crooked, your garment will not hang correctly no matter what you do.

Straightening the grain involves making sure the lengthwise threads and crosswise threads of your fabric are perpendicular to each other. It involves lining up one end and tugging or stretching the fabric until the weave is straight. For more complete directions, I suggest: "The Complete Book of Sewing" from DK Publishing or "New Complete Guide to Sewing" from Reader's Digest.

I won't go into pattern drafting here. Suffice it to say that Tammie Dupuis and Sempstress have some of the best drafting instructions I've found for Renaissance and Medieval garments. If you want to learn to do your own patterns, their sites are the best places to begin. If you are using a commercial pattern, please check for period authenticity if you want period clothes. Altering a commercial pattern to fit is complicated, but rewarding. Pati Palmer provides the best instruction I've seen in her book "Fit for Real People".

Every wrinkle multiplies the error and affects the way the garment fits. So you have prepared fabric and a pattern that fits. Where do you go from here? Press the pattern pieces (delicate heat, no steam) and the fabric. Every wrinkle multiplies the error and affects the way the garment fits. Pin and cut carefully, paying attention to grain lines and pattern matching where needed. Mark your pieces as needed. I use tailor's tacks and snips most often so I don't mar the fabric. Tracing paper and a wheel tend to make dents. Often, I will cut single layer rather than the usual double, flipping each piece over for the second cutting. This is especially good for slippery fabrics. They tend to slide around while you're cutting so the left front and the right front end up slightly different sizes.

As soon as you remove the pattern pieces from the fabric, stay stitch any curves or off-grain cuts. I can never remember what direction to go, so here's a handy diagram to print out and keep by your sewing machine. Use a regular length stitch and sew just outside your seamline. This way, if you have to clip curves to get something to lay right, you have a built-in reinforcement.

Now you're ready to sew. One last thing, though. Really great garments are made at the ironing board as much as at the sewing machine. Construction pressing is essential! I will mention it often in individual projects.